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Great Bottles / Wines of the World

The Fascinating Magic of Hungarian Tokay

A friend had told me about the privatisation of vineyards that had started in Hungary after the collapse of the communist regime, and specifically of the sale of Château Pajzos, renowned for its great late harvests. » At the time Jean-Louis Laborde already ran two agricultural domains of 250ha in the south-west of France: “In the early 90’s agriculture was taking a wrong turn, while the wine market, after the crisis, was recovering in emerging countries.” He was seduced by the project because “the investment was relatively small” and there were many partners, eight in total.
The magic of the place did the rest. How can you not be moved by the surrounding scenery, the high Carpathian Mountains, of course, but also the forests intersected by vines? It is all so enchanting; morning mist rising from the Bodrog river, and the light that seemed to get swallowed up: “I didn’t know anything about wine, but I was transfixed by the beauty of the setting.” (...)