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A view from aboard / ASIA

In Shanghai, the Cultural Revolution of Paul Pairet

It was in the Café Mosaic in Paris that we started hearing of a young chef who had returned to France after several years of “culinary wanderings” that had taken him to Hong, Kong, Sydney and Jakarta. Armed with these years of travelling through Asia and Australasia, and the influence of his experiences, he was now impossible to classify in terms of his cuisine: strong French roots in technique and culture, but clearly different and foreign in its creativity and unabashed innovation. At the time, he was considered a rival to the Spoon of Alain Ducasse who, impressed by the talents of the young man, encouraged him to apply them at the Ritz- Carlton Istanbul, making it one of the most popular restaurants of the Ottoman capital.
But Paul loved Asia and returned in 2005 to open the restaurant of the brand new Shangri-La Pudong in Shanghai: the Jade on 36. In three years, he gave the Jade on 36 an international reputation, whose cuisine, while sometimes denounced for being too original, was also recognised for its perfect technique and personality, already deftly playing on textures and temperatures, sometimes with excess. (...)

© By François-Xavier Rougagnou, Photos by Scott Wright/Limelight studio 3